Two days of rest at the campground near the small but charming French mountain village of Lescun have done wonders for our legs and feet. We're reenergized and eager to head back into the mountains. In two stages to Candanchú with an overnight bivouac planned for tonight. It's raining as we wake up, and although we're surrounded by mountains, none are visible; the clouds are hanging low. We have breakfast, pack our gear, and, along with most of the campground guests who are also departing this morning, we crowd around the toilet block to brush our teeth and get the last items dry and packed into our backpacks. Many routes converge here, so the campground fills up each evening and in the morning, everyone sets off around the same time.
We begin a long ascent from 846 meters to 2,079 meters. Climbing 1,233 meters over 10.6 kilometers, it's quite a significant climb. We leave the campground, briefly follow a paved road, but soon take trails that cut across the road's switchbacks. Through meadows on old stone roads. They are slippery and muddy from the rain, but we're glad to be going uphill, as descending on slippery roads is even trickier. The ascent feels good with fresh legs, and it isn't long before the meadows give way to forests and mountain pastures. The cloud cover grows closer. We cross a parking lot, the last one, where the road truly ends, and we head back into the higher parts of the mountains. At eye level, we see strands of cloud hanging below the thick cover, and soon we walk into the fog.
Over muddy paths, we walk out of the beech forests, and the landscape becomes barer. On the slopes, cows and horses stand. Skilfully, they move from one slope to another, sometimes up to their elbows in mud. Higher up, the terrain flattens a bit, and we pass by a hut, the summer residence of a shepherd. There are still some sheep around, but most are grazing higher up. During the climb, we walk just above them. There’s no dog with the flock, but signs along the route warn that we've entered an area where guard dogs might be with the herds, so we're a bit cautious. We've already climbed 1.000 meters and have been on the move for 3 hours. Every minute, we've climbed over 5.5 meters! Just a little bit more to the top… We reach the first pass. The cloud cover seems to be breaking a bit, but we still don't have a view. From the pass, we continue climbing until just before the highest point we find a flat spot to take a break. Occasionally, the sun breaks through, and it immediately feels warm. Fortunately, this allows our clothes to dry a bit. The occasional hiker passes by, but most people who left the campground this morning are on a different route, probably the GR10. We are still on the HRP.
As we continue, we climb a bit more and soon feel it getting warmer, the fog lightens, and the cover really starts to break open. One gust of wind and we suddenly have an incredible view over the white cloud deck with high peaks protruding above it. It’s brilliantly sunny. What a different scene from a few minutes ago, stunning! Now we can also see a bit of where we are heading. The mountain ridge is green with lots of flowers. Plenty of purple thyme, orchids, especially the 'burnt orchis' and purple irises, the fields are full of them. Suddenly, we hear a sound like several drones taking off. It’s loud and strange enough to make us stop and look. It takes a moment, but about ten meters ahead of us, a large swarm of bees flies above the path. What a noise for such small creatures! We decide to go around them and walk over a hill. The animals have the same idea, so we can quickly return to the path and continue along the trails by horses and cows and the beautiful view. Below, it’s still cloudy, and we delightfully walk in the sun! We walk on to about 18 kilometers, where Lac d’Arlet and a refuge is located. It’s a stunning mountain lake with green meadows on our side and high rock walls on the other. The refuge is closed for a few more days, but we manage to get drinking water there.
So we can pause at this beautiful spot and have enough water for the evening and tomorrow morning, which is always nice. Cloud fragments often rise, putting us in the mist, but it never lasts long before we're back in the sun. This would be a nice place for the night, but so many people have thought the same, that we decide to walk a bit further. We count at least 15 tents next to the refuge. Not much further is a nice flat spot, but a hill further down, a large flock of sheep is being led down. With sheepdogs, but also large white Pyrenean mountain dogs that protect the flock from predators. Just in case they have their sights set on this beautiful meadow, we decide to walk a few kilometers more to the next valley. It’s still quite a bit of descent and ascent. Above a flock of sheep, below a herd, past stone sheds and a small farm. But just on the other side of the next pass, we find a beautiful flat spot, just big enough for our tent, sheltered but with a view over the mountains. Close to the path, but no one will come by this late anyway. What a spot again! These are always the most beautiful… We have a wonderfully quiet evening with a beautiful sunset. But before the stars appear in the sky, we are already asleep. It was a magnificent stage. From below to above the clouds. Every meter of ascent is worth it!
