GR5

Since we like camping best, we mainly stayed overnight at campsites along the route. In the Vosges and Jura, we also slept around a dozen nights in huts/cabins specially set up for trekking hikers — varying from a basic shelter with just 4 walls and a door, to a small house with stove, cooking utensils and even solar-powered lighting. Most are intended for shelter, with a table and benches that can be easily moved to lay down an air mattress. There is a 'first come, first served' rule; we were almost always lucky because we weren't hiking during the summer holidays.

In the well-known mountain areas, we bivouacked quite a few times. These were very special experiences, surrounded only by nature and animals. It's always important to check where bivouacking is allowed, within which hours, and where you can safely pitch your tent. In France, there is a clear distinction between wild camping (not allowed) and bivouacking (tolerated). In the Mercantour, we were only allowed to bivouac between 7pm and 9am. In the Vanoise, you can only pitch your tent at certain Refuges. We always pitched at sunset and packed up as quickly as possible after waking, which worked perfectly for us.

We drink quite a lot of water on a hiking day — for cooking, washing, coffee, and of course staying hydrated. On campsites, water comes from a tap, but bivouacking is a different story. The first time, we carried 6 bottles of 1.5 liters from the last village! We quickly improved our water-sourcing skills. In France, many villages have small fountains with drinking water. For uncontrolled sources and mountain streams, we carried a Katadyn water purification system. Combined with boiling, this proved to be a golden move — especially in the mountains.

Since many campsites are in valleys near rivers, the tent was almost always very wet when packed up, especially before and after summer — adding significant weight. Our solution: during lunch breaks, we'd pitch the tent to let it dry. This meant longer breaks, but we'd set off lighter and more rested, and the tent would be dry enough at the next stop.

French mountain shops are expensive, but you can always put together a simple meal from basics. In Luxembourg, petrol stations proved a godsend for groceries. Switzerland was very expensive — once we spent €35 on a simple dinner and breakfast. Tip: stock up before crossing the Swiss border. Campsites averaged around €17/night, hotels around €70/night. Huts and bivouacking were free, except in the Vanoise where Refuges charged €5/person for sanitary facilities and water.

Camping while hiking is fantastic, but keeping everything dry is a challenge. We always put wet gear in plastic bags and dried everything during breaks. An important lesson: a waterproof backpack isn't always the best choice — moisture that gets in is hard to get out. Next time, we'd choose a breathable backpack with a rain cover.

Long stages in the mountains require lots of food. Our first bivouac taught us: pack as light as possible! We quickly replaced fresh vegetables with dried ones and freeze-dried meals for multi-day stretches. General tip: avoid canned goods — you have to carry the empty cans back down too. After 3 days on freeze-dried meals, we'd desperately crave fresh fruit and a 'real' meal...