From Portugal to Spain

We leave the Algarve and head for Spain — but first we need to cross Portugal. The coast becomes flatter, the beaches endless. At the Guadiana river we take a ferry across to Ayamonte, and Spain welcomes us with tapas, cerveza and a completely different atmosphere.

The route takes us through the Doñana nature reserve, where we walk over endless wooden boardwalks with marshes full of birds on both sides. We wait for a ferry that refuses to come. In San Fernando we reach the Bay of Cádiz — a world of salt pans, flamingos and Atlantic wind.

The weather turns: storms, rain, even unexpectedly cold nights. But also: the first time a Spaniard calls out "Buen Camino!" to us. The first time we realise we've truly become long-distance hikers. And somewhere between the endless beaches and the busy Spanish coastal towns, the adventure truly begins.