Stage 86 promises to be the first true mountain stage. After packing up our gear, we leave the campsite. We walk the first kilometers along the main road to reconnect with the trail. From there, we walk through deciduous forests with large old beech and oak trees. At Auritz, there is a supermarket where we can buy supplies for the coming days. Tonight, due to a lack of accommodation, we will be wild camping. So, the adventure of the mountains begins today!
We continue along the path further into the forest until we reach the imposing monastery of Roncesvalles. This monastery, dating back to the early 13th century, marks an important milestone for many pilgrims starting in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, the beginning of the Camino. After a long stage of more than 25 kilometer, they spend their first night here in this monastery and receive a good meal from volunteers who work here. This monastery was especially built for this purpose: as a hospital and refuge for pilgrims crossing the dangerous mountains of the Pyrenees. It is an impressive typical Gothic structure. We take a look around, talk to a Dutch volunteer, and continue our route into the mountains.
The route is fairly flat for the first five kilometers; from the monastery, a steep climb into the mountains begins. After some searching, we find a path behind the monastery, a bit off the road and the Camino. It doesn't take long before we walk into the clouds, and the mist limits our visibility. Fortunately, we spot blueberry bushes laden with berries. In no time, we gather a handful. Delicious! We need that energy; the ascent takes some getting used to.
Higher up, we reach the road and the Camino again, near a church called 'Iglesia de San Salvador de Ibañeta'. At this simple church with thick walls and small windows, pilgrims pray to thank for safely crossing the Pyrenees. For us, it's the beginning, so we won't tempt fate ;-). We turn right here, leave the road, and continue further into the mountains. A winding road takes us to the highest point, 'Alto de Lepoeder' at 1.432 meters.
The route is busy, and we speak with many pilgrims from Poland, Germany, Belgium, and the Netherlands. Although we prefer quieter paths, this also has its charm. It's misty and drizzling, but after so much climbing, our muscles really need a break. As soon as the sky clears up a bit, we set up the chairs and connect the stove to prepare a fried egg and cheese sandwich for the necessary energy for the rest of the climb and the stage. There's supposed to be a magnificent view here, but we can't see anything. Occasionally, we can see a few hundred meters ahead, but the valley and the rest of the mountains remain hidden from us. We don't linger unnecessarily and quickly continue on our way.
After following the Camino for a few more kilometers, we reach the point where we leave it and head east into the Pyrenees, following the HRP (Haute Route Pyrenees). We're near a spring where we can collect drinking water for the rest of the day and evening. For wild camping, we need extra water, which adds quite a few extra kilos to our backpacks. Soon, we reach the French border. It's the second time we're crossing the border on foot: this time from the south. Meanwhile, it's drizzling again, and although we're close to the Atlantic Ocean, the drops on our south side begin a long journey via the Ebro to the Mediterranean Sea; the drops in front of us will reach the ocean much faster.
Once we've left the Camino, it's immediately quiet on the trail; we won't encounter any more hikers for the rest of the journey. Instead, we see valleys and hills filled with cows, horses, goats, and sheep. They roam alongside and among each other for kilometers, without any fences in sight. We're a bit cautious because of any guard dogs with the herds, but we don't see any. A French farmer tells us (our French has to come from deep within after being in Spain for so long…) that there are no dogs here. Thankfully, that makes it a bit easier to walk. But the altitude gain and kilometers are starting to take their toll, and we haven't come across a spot to pitch the tent all day.
At our wit's end, we finally find our spot for the night after passing the last storage sheds and animal barns at the end of the valley, and after a steep descent through tall grass. It's a beautiful flat spot just off the trail, where it's clear a tent has often been pitched before. With an unobstructed view through the narrow valley and wonderfully quiet. We needed that! The clouds clear up in the evening, treating us to an incredible view after all. This is pure mountain bliss…
