At six o'clock, we're already outside our tent. The sun is slowly rising, but the mountains around us are still gray. It's chilly and windless, but not cold, so first, we pack up our gear and lower the tent in case a ranger comes by on Saturday morning. Then it's time for a cup of coffee and breakfast. We always take our time with that, especially in this stunning spot on 'our' peninsula at Lac deth Ombrèr, or Lac Obago, or Estanh Obago, depending on the map you consult. It's around 8 o'clock by the time we've packed everything, put on our backpacks, and walked through the stream back to the GR11 trail. We start stage 107, together with the 93 stages of the GR5, this is stage 200 from 'home'. It feels like a small milestone for us. The stage starts flat, the first part goes along the lake. It's good to warm up the muscles before the climb to a pass 350 meters higher. We've been able to look at the slope all evening and morning, and it looked pretty steep, but it's the only climb today. Then, a long descent follows, so we'd better enjoy it. Once on the other side of the lake, the climb begins. The mountains are starting to get some color from the rising sun, but fortunately, we're still walking in the shadow of the mountain. We zigzag up the paths between the green grass, flowers, and rocks. Steep sections alternate with flatter valleys, and the ascent goes smoothly.
It's so nice that we reach the pass within an hour and a half and arrive at the border of Parc National d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici, mainly the latter part of this name: Estany de Sant Maurici. The slope from the pass leads towards this large lake through the park. From here, it will be much busier. The park and the lake have a strong allure, with over 500,000 visitors annually. It's already quite crowded at the pass with hikers who have departed from parking lots on the other side of the park. We also have a stunning view up here. Behind us lies the valley we've come from, with Tuc de Ratena and Tuc del Bergús to the right, both towering over 2,800 meters high, barren grey peaks. To the left is the fresh green Circ de Saboredo, and ahead of us lies Comtes de Ratera, our destination. We're well above the tree line; the pass is rocky, but we quickly descend back into grassland. The descent is steep but thankfully on trails, although there are many loose stones and gravel. A week or two ago, we would have struggled here, but apparently, experience teaches us well; it's going quite smoothly for us now.
We walk along lakes and marshy areas with a maze of streams, first above the tree line, then among the pine trees. At a spring, we collect water for our break. It's beautiful, pristine water that you could probably drink straight from the source, but we still filter it through the Katadyn just to be safe. Especially Estany de les Obagues de Ratera, just below 2,250 meters, is stunning. Green meadows surrounded by beautiful old trees around crystal-clear blue water. We've been on the trail for almost 3 hours now, and this is a perfect spot to rest and set up the tent in the sun, which was still wet from the morning dew. It's a delightful place, and we could easily spend the rest of the day here. However, it's getting quite warm in the sun, which motivates us to keep our break short and continue trekking into the woods. As we descend further and further, we pass waterfalls and often have a view of a lake. The lower we go, the busier it gets.
And warmer too, it's noticeable that it's hotter at lower elevations than up high. We pass by the larger Estani de Ratera. From here, the trail widens, at least for a while. Large white jeeps drive up here with tourists for excursions. It's a magnificent place; a lake nestled among the mountains has something magical about it. Further on, the route veers off the wide path again, and we continue descending over a busy zigzag trail. Hordes of tourists are making their way up. Some are fit and fast, while others struggle step by step. At the bottom, near the entrance of the park, lies the largest lake of them all: Estany de Sant Maurici. This is a natural lake, but enlarged by a dam to generate more electricity. This spot is accessible by car and even busier than the trails. People are picnicking and playing with children, dogs, and the water; it feels like a real summer afternoon. Luckily, there's a fountain with cold drinking water. For us, there's still a descent of over 500 meters in 7.5 kilometers, not particularly steep. We walk on wide, easy paths, but the temperature, over 30 degrees Celsius, makes it a bit challenging. In the beginning, it's still crowded, but as time passes, the trails become empty again; few people choose to walk to a National Park. Eventually, we reach the road, cross the river that flows out of the park, and dodge one Jeep after another heading towards the park. We arrive at the first camping site in Espot, where there are six in total near the village. It's a beautiful spot, but it turns out to be full. Fortunately, we have better luck at the next one. It's also full, but just outside the camping area, we can set up the tent next to the river. The rushing river roars over the rocks. The view isn't as stunning as the camping spots above us, but tomorrow we can choose a free spot if people leave, so we'll take it. It's four o'clock when we set down our belongings, relieved to have reached our campsite. Descending 1,300 meters in over 30-degree heat takes a lot of energy. Now, first things first: setting up the tent, a refreshing shower, and then… pizza! Tomorrow, we can go shopping again in the village of Espot. It's nice to be back in a town.
