Yes! This morning, we're heading to the mountains! We've been looking forward to this, both literally and figuratively. We've already seen the mountains from afar, and they were calling to us. The excitement of the unexpected and the energy required to conquer the mountains make the reward all the more valuable. We're ready for it! We've had a few wonderful days in the old and bustling city of Pamplona. We stayed near the city center, so we were able to spend plenty of time exploring the city. There are so many old buildings, cozy squares, green parks, and bustling shopping streets. And when Spain comes alive, it does so in full force. Musicians entertained the crowds in the squares, the streets were bustling with people, there were demonstrations against raising the retirement age and against bullfighting, weddings were taking place at the churches, and of course, there was another public holiday. Giant figures, often carried by two strong men, paraded through the streets as if it were a procession of medieval giants. It's a remarkable city, and it's incredibly busy. Wonderful, but in the meantime, we're looking forward to a quieter and more natural environment, which we'll surely find in the Pyrenees in the coming days. We're well-prepared, and our gear is all set for departure.
This morning, we leave Pamplona heading northeast. The big city is already awake early, and the streets are bustling as we depart at 8 o'clock. We walk past the beautiful old buildings of the city center one last time, including the grand cathedral, an important landmark for all Camino pilgrims passing through as they leave the city heading south. We're heading north, but we, too, are waved off by early café-goers as we navigate the streets. Once we pass under the city gate, we're surprisingly quickly out of the city center again. We walk along the city walls straight into the greenery, passing through parks and neighborhoods until we're completely out of the urban area and suddenly find ourselves amidst meadows and allotment gardens. Then, we find ourselves in a suburban area again, heading towards the Arga River, which we continue to follow through the greenery, past the last buildings of the city of Pamplona. We end up following the water much longer than intended; the route cuts a large bend of the river, but we continue straight along the riverbank, enjoying the extra stretch of the lush green riverside and passing by a beautiful waterfall. Once back on the route, we realize we're back on the main pilgrimage route of Europe. It's crowded. There isn't a stretch where we don't encounter people coming towards us. We pass dozens of "caminantes" per hour. This is much busier than the quiet paths we're used to inland. Most people are on their third stage of the journey. And even though they've just crossed the Pyrenees, they're still fit, fresh, and cheerful.
Once away from the buildings, we walk a lot through deciduous and coniferous forests, and near the villages, along fields. The landscape becomes increasingly mountainous, and especially in the second half, it's sometimes quite a climb. In the morning, there's some rain, but later the sun shines again, although dark clouds often hang against the mountains. The route ends in Zubiri along the same river. It's truly a pilgrim village: on every corner, and in between, there's a hostel, guesthouse, or Auberge with a shell on the facade or door. There are a few small shops, and we have a good room, so it's all fine for us. The streets are actually quite lively with fellow walkers who, albeit for a different purpose, are also eager to continue walking. It's a small but vibrant village!
Today's stage was certainly not a true mountain stage yet; the landscape here at the foot of the Pyrenees is too hilly for that. However, it's beautifully green, and we're getting closer and closer. Tomorrow, we'll venture further into the mountains!
